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I quite like the worldbuilding, but I had the same problem of not liking the characters. Enough so that I didn't bother reading the third book. Part of the problem, I think, is that what I was willing to give Lyra a pass on during the first book as childish bad habits she'd outgrow in the course of the story, by the second book were being shown as her most useful and stalwart qualities that she should be proud of. Which may be me reading too much into the author's intent, but it did come across that way.